Pond Preparation - Getting Ready For Fibreglass

Whilst I appreciate that most of what is written below is good old fashioned common sense, I thought it best to put it together incase anything got missed, feel free to call and discuss any concerns you may have.

General requirements which apply to all ponds

1. All ponds must be covered with a waterproof cover extending a minimum of 3’-0” beyond all walls of the pond or filter with a slope to allow for water shed (See images below).  Headroom above the pond top needs to be a minimum of 4’-0” to allow for access and ventilation during the course of the works.
2. All ponds must be fully dry I will not entertain laying up on any damp surfaces as this affects the cure of the resin which can in future lead to chemical leeching into the pond, this is for your protection as well as mine.
3. All ponds must be swept out and clean, with all debris removed prior to the commencement of any works, bottom drains need to be dry with no water in them at all.
4. An electricity supply needs to be available in case it is needed for grinding back pipes (boiling the kettle) etc.
5. Payment will be required by either cash or cheque on the day of completion, no exceptions. On larger projects interim payments will be required to cover materials and labour to date with the balance being paid on the day of completion.

New brick and block built ponds with render finish

1. Rendering to walls  to be carried out in a minimum of 3:1 sand cement render. Builders sand or plastering sand is ideal, do not use sharp sand. Please trowel as smooth as possible
2. All external corners are to be chamfered or rounded this ensures that I can turn external corners and give you the best possible finish
3. Internal corners are fine at 90 degrees
4. All pipes need to project beyond the finished face of the render by 2” this allows me to seal the pipes correctly and finish smooth with the render ensuring safety for your fish
5. Floors are best screeded in sharp sand again a mix of 3:1 sand cement is best  again please trowel as smooth as possible
6. Where pipes enter the pond please leave at least 3” from any side wall and a minimum of 12” above the base to ensure proper sealing
7. Please remember the better the rendering the better the finish I can achieve

New pu foam lined ponds

1. All foam must be fitted prior to my arrival with all joints level and well butted all fixings must be sunk below the level of the face and filled over.
2. All external corners must be rounded this is easily done by removing the foil backing for about 2” and lightly sanding level with the top of the blockwork/brickwork and then rounding over the top edge of foam.
3. Tape to be supplied by client for taping any joints that may require it on the day of laminating
4. A board must be supplied for me to walk on / work off as foam damages easily whilst laying up with heel and toe pressure and I like to leave the floor in the best condition possible
5. I will trim around bottom brains so long as you leave me an idea of where it is by putting  a 3” hole in the foam in approx the centre of the bottom drain so I can locate it
6. All pipe to be a minimum of 2” past the face of the foam

Existing ponds

1. To be cleaned down and power washed scrape of all loose debris and fill all cracks etc remove coping stones if possible.
2. If a G4 or other paint finish has been applied this is to be sanded with 60 grit sandpaper to rough up the existing surface.
3. Remove paint finish from all surfaces of bottom drains as these will need to be glassed into to form a watertight seal.
4. If returns are flush with wall remove render around the pipes for at least 2” so I have some pipework to glass onto.